Fashion Weekly

Shape of things to come

December 2008
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Gulf Weekly Mai Al Khatib-Camille
By Mai Al Khatib-Camille

Winter 2008/9 will be remembered as the 'statement season' with bright bold hues, architectural silhouettes and embellished accessories.

This season you will see seductive opulent fabrics such as rich damask, lace, beaded embellishments, fur, peek-a-boo sheers and slinky satins. Country tweeds, tartan checks, leathers and military-wear also make a comeback.

For colour think Crayola. Tomato red is a major shade for 2009, not forgetting purple from deep plums to light lavender and magnificent teal blue. For example, crimson red is the new black at Ounass, the trendy fashion store at Al A'ali Mall, which also presents every interpretation of the colour from tomato to scarlet, burgundy to terracotta.

Winter white and ice cream colour palettes are favoured by some designers like Emporio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent. Some of the other stand-out hues on the high streets and in the malls this winter are gold and puce orchid, grey, blue and olive. Another interesting combination is orange and crushed cherry, frequently teamed with the more sombre neutral midnight inky blues.

You might be wondering whether black is out? Black will never be out of style especially with Goth and rocker chic still high on the 'do' list.

Coats

Coats and in particular jackets have a more sculpted feel with strong rich solid colours such as teal, purple and orange.

Three main coat styles vying for attention are the loose coats with undefined waistlines, defined waist/belted coats and seamed waist coats.

Coats frequently have looseness with easy shoulder lines and capacious sleeves. Add a belt and voila you have a waist. Women should embellish their curves and not shy away from them.

The loose style is also perfect for fur materials. High funnel stands, shawl collars, large flat collars, geometric cowls or fur trims are the collars in style at the moment.

And there is another shape that has taken the runway by storm. Think of an egg, invert it so the narrower part is at the top and there you have the new winter season 'cocoon' coat.

And round necklines are ideal to show off a statement necklace or a high shawl collar. To make this shape work go for soft pastel shades such as rain-washed sky blue or nectarine.

Designer biker/rocker jackets

The biker look is another key trend complimented by rocker-style shoes and boots.

One of the most inspired biker jackets in the recent collections came from the House of Balenciaga which showed that zips are not just functional but used for eye-catching decorative effect.

Almost all the main brands have their version of a leather biker/bomber jacket and many have half a dozen styles. While black is always a favourite, grey, navy, tan, brown and animal print biker/bombers are all on the racks.

The collar on biker jackets is frequently fur or faux fur and sometimes the whole jacket.

Shimmer effects and glistening metallic leather, snakeskin and croc effects all keep shimmer and glimmer in mainstream fashion. Fabrics that sparkle and shine in biker looks give a new edge to this favourite retro fashion.

The sherling jacket is also a fave among designers and can be found at Ounass.

Knitwear

This year the country heritage tartan and ladylike-look is well supported with an exciting range of interesting innovative knitwear. Ounass for example finds inspiration from the Scottish Highlands where tartans and tweeds are resurrected.

Several knit textures and styles stand out as there is no definitive style. The cardigan coat is still a best-seller. Collars are a feature that designers have played with and their efforts have led to a revival of innovative ways with old fashion trends such as extra high cowl collars, some of them being quite sculptured in line with trends in other areas.

Plenty of cardigans have shawl fur collars, fur trims or ties. Fur and faux fur trimmed cardigans in natural honey tones or greys look wonderful with short prom skirts.

Dresses

Girls and women alike have rediscovered the ease of one piece dressing and love the way a dress shows off their curves.

Sequinned and embellished dresses, lace and leopard prints, red, teal and purple garments are all on the agenda this winter season.

The dress can be short and tunic-like, knee or below knee, ankle or maxi. There is a dress for everyone, whatever their age and figure. What has generated a fresh look in dresses and long tunics is intense rich paisley patterns and geometric prints, brocades, tartan, satin, lace and sheers and ice cream colours.

All dresses right now show drapery focusing on the waist or side waist. Look out for Grecian variations.

The jersey dress is a staple teamed with a three-quarter coat and tights. Patterned tights look splendid and add leg interest and texture to a variety of cool-weather looks.

Animal prints are even more to the fore this winter and using them in dresses from evening to daywear, long and short cocktail dresses will give you a feline edge.

Cleavage exposure has taken a dive, but in the other direction! Necklines are more modest and provide interest with key holes, peek-a-boo sheers and lace effects. Glamour no longer means 'show-it-all' but understanding the subtle nuances of statement with style. Eli Saab is a designer who has mastered this sophisticated womanly styling.

Boho Folk is another style that women seem to flock to. Key pieces include the paisley/folk print dress, the coat with embroidery, the richly printed/embroidered scarf, the wild fur or print bag and fringed boots.

The prom skirt look has been gaining strength for a couple of years in the form of casual slouch skirts. Now the prom puffball is a shape to note in both skirt separates and dress styles. By next year there will probably be many coats with prom style full skirts.

As the trend for coats has been toward looser shapes and A-line fullness in the lower half, it has become easier to wear a wider or fuller skirt in winter. Short jackets like the biker styles also make it an easy choice for more voluminous skirt styles.

Trousers

Despite the resurrection of dresses many women still prefer trousers for everyday wear. Pants are practical for the working woman and mannish looks always veer toward classic territory.

Here's the skinny on the trousers for 2009 - skinny leather and peg-top trouser (also known as the carrot-top trousers) are 'in'. Also check out high-waisted sailor pants, drop-crotch trousers and spindly drainpipes.

This season, trousers may not be the practical way to go. The styles may look ridiculous so take it slowly and find what makes you feel comfortable. Apparently harem pants in silk jersey should be a no-brainer in 'must-haves'.

The bag

'Various bags for various occasions' is the motto of all designers this season. Carry bright clutches for evening wear, roomy handbags for shopping and elegant small bags for the office - unless you are anything like me and just carry everything you need in one gigantic bag! Do remember though, each bag has to be distinguished by style, colour, shape and its own unique character.

Although big was the way to go, bags are shrinking and losing their aggressiveness. Go for soft, pouchy purses and stick to the reigning shape - the clutch. An embellished clutch is a good clutch. Yves Saint Laurent's bow bag is another key item. Also check out woven/ribbon-inspired clutches, beaded clutches and gorgeous shoulder chain bags. Designers Lanvin and Chanel had the right idea in mind.

Vintage handbags are still with us. This time designers paid special attention to the models of the 1960s - rounded, square and trapeze shapes. They are ornamented with voluminous patch pockets, decorative straps or fringes.

Heavy 'gold-plated' chains, catchy buckles, massive zips, and over-sized metallic embellishments are extremely popular. This season chains are functional, long and chunky as shoulder straps. Among other embellishment fringes, fur and patchwork are widely used.

The perfect footwear

The toes of winter shoes are anything but ordinary, 2009 brings back the square-toed shoe and pointed toes are, once again, becoming a fashion must have.

Boots are also big this year but then again what would winter be without boots? The above-the-knee-boot will make its appearance in both leather and soft suede. This style offers the opportunity to take heavier summertime dresses and skirts into the winter months. Dramatically long boots can also be worn over slim pants or tights.

At the other extreme, you'll find the shoe boot or ankle boot making its debut. This little boot is best described as a cross between a shoe and boot and is frequently seen fur-lined and with wedge heels.

This distinctive shoe trend co-ordinates nicely with slim pants or leggings.

Cut-out boots are also there to woo you in 2009 both in winter and early summer. Designers have made the shoes last longer than the freezing winters by opting for open-toes, cut-away sides and even cut-out heels.

Bring out your wild side with animal prints which make a bold fashion statement this winter with snakeskin and crocodile skin shoes (often mock) seen dressing up dramatic wide leg pants and skirts.

A single pair of animal print shoes can give a monochromatic winter fashion ensemble, a bold and stylish flavour that's sure to attract attention.

Lace-ups are also hot to trot. Dramatic lace-up shoes are all the rage in 2009. These aren't your typical granny boots of yesteryear but are sleekly sculpted, high-fashion foot coverings with dramatic high heels, often crafted with finishes such as patent leather.

You'll see lace-ups in bright, vivid colours to add a splash of interest to the typical dark colours worn during winter.

The high-heeled Mary Jane will continue into 2009 but with a twist. It will be a sort of mix between schoolgirl shoes and vamp with lots of buckles and really high heels thrown in-between.

Statement jewellery

Yep, bold bright jewellery is set to continue as a massive trend for 2009. Use pieces rather than sets to truly make a statement, and don't be afraid to mix and match them. Statement pieces are big news at Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Celine and Lacroix.

The key looks this season are gold, graphic and over-sized. Bangles are giant, chunky and wooden. Bangles and twisted chains with mixed materials tied into one are 'in' while simple charms are 'out'. Organic will also be a major theme, with giant molluscs, coral, shells and driftwood pieces as at Swarovski, Graeme Black and A F Vandervorst.

Examples of prominent jewellery trends are:

Black diamonds by designers Stephen Webster, Theo Fennell and Neil Lane

Coloured cocktail rings by Judith Ripka and Pianegonda

Cuffs and bangles by Stephen Webster, Judith Ripka, Neil Lane and John Hardy

Nature/botanical theme by Azza Fahmy and Stephen Webster

Layering necklaces and pendants by designers Judith Ripka, Neil Lane, Pianegonda and Bvlgari.

Long earrings by Stephen Webster, Azza Fahmy and John Hardy. All these pieces can be found at Azal Jewelers in Al A'ali Mall (with the exception of Bvlgari).







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