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Designer and wardrobe stylist Hamra Alam believes that the abaya is more than just a black cloak … it is an expression of a woman’s culture and inner beauty.
The abaya is known for being a simple, loose over-garment, essentially a robe-like dress worn over other clothes by many women across the Islamic world.
Spotting a niche in that market, Alam is one of a growing number of modern designers transforming the more conservative abayas and caftans into contemporary attire with touches of shimmery beads and patterns for the everyday woman.
Although Alam was born in the UK, she never forgot her family’s Iranian and Pakistani background. She explained: “At school I was surrounded by a lot of Europeans and was perhaps the only Persian/Asian girl in my class. I knew I was different but that did not deter me from my dreams.
“I quickly learned that I was not a fashion follower ... I was confident enough to be a leader and set my own style. I can walk through any door very confidently with what I have on and not care about what anyone else is wearing. I think more women need to simply be comfortable with themselves and what they wear.”
At 16, she was awarded the ‘best colour co-ordinator and designer’ in her college. She later attended the University of Leeds in England before moving to Cairo to continue her studies.
In 2003, Alam moved to Dubai to start a new life for herself and her daughter, Jannah, now aged 10. She evolved as a designer and started her funky lines of abayas and holiday caftans which she showcased during Dubai Fashion Week.
She said: “When I saw the demand and response for haute couture abayas my creativity went wild and I realised that the women of the Gulf were far more modern than Western viewers think they are. I wanted to take ‘black’ to a whole new level and express my culture through fashion and style.
“Born in the UK I was always torn between two cultures and decided I would create my own style. Instead of making abayas in the form of a classical cape I started making wraps and the cuts were different. Each pattern was unique and I also added Swarovski crystals and other embellishments to make the caftans even more trendy.
“Aside from the Middle East, nowadays abayas are gaining a lot of popularity amongst women in Europe as well. A lot of my clients are from the Middle East and Europe.
“I sold my collections to boutiques in Dubai and Saudi Arabia and even designed a line for princesses. I went back to England and took part in London Fashion Week and the visitors loved the clothes, especially the fact that they could throw on a caftan for a casual day-time look and then dress-it-up for a fun night out. My aim is to make timeless pieces for every occasion.”
Alam’s holiday caftans include harem pants, corsets, chiffon hoodies, cocktail dresses as well as niqab (face masks) and head accessories.
Her caftans range from chiffon to dentelle lace. Others feature different prints and colours such as fun zebra prints. The flamenco sleeves are also an added flirty and playful feature.
Her garments cover the complete range when it comes to price. The holiday caftan collection, for example, starts at BD70 and those with crystal embellishments can often demand prices of around BD300. She has designed dresses valued at BD3,000 and now works with high-street retailers and sells items direct to buyers.
Alam moved to Bahrain with the aim of opening a boutique but has decided to hold out until the return of Formula One next year. During Ramadan, she tested the water with a 30-day exhibition at L’Hotel which successfully attracted a host of new clients.
Now she aims to expand her business throughout the Middle East and Asia and her entrepreneurial spirit remains fired up as she is also starting an event management company for designers to show off their new collections to buyers on catwalks in Doha, Kuwait and Bahrain.
Her message to customers is simple: “Be trendsetters, confident in what you wear and proud of who you are. Always be who you are inside. Don’t imitate anyone else’s beauty because you are beautiful. Just imagine, if more girls could be themselves how many leaders there would be? Enhance your culture and be that example.”
For more information on Alam’s designs visit www.hamraalam.com
