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Shades of burgundy and jade, rich fabrics and sophisticated skirts and dresses with longer hemlines inspired by designs of the 1960s and early 1970s were among the trends highlighted during New York Fashion Week, writes Christine Kearney.
More than 90 designers showed Autumn/Winter 2012 collections to retail buyers, media and celebrities during the semi-annual event and 250 others opted for other venues around the city.
While some gown designers gave a nod to the 1920s, sparked by films such as The Artist, daytime and less formal evening looks featured wearable takes on 1960s styles with longer hemlines seen in pencil, maxi, circle and pleated skirts.
Designer Michael Kors declared the demise of super-short hemlines. “I think it is going to be the death knell of the miniskirt,” he said. “It doesn’t have to be floor length but it can be from the ankle to the knee.”
Along with Tory Burch and Diane von Furstenberg, Kors featured pencil skirts, some with matching jackets. Nanette Lepore mixed bright patterns and prints, while Betsey Johnson said she was inspired by the 1960s mod-inspired looks.
“There have been touches of late ’60s, early ’70s with more of a cosmopolitan, urban bent,” said Susan Cernek, Glamour magazine’s fashion development director. “It’s not theatrical or poppy, it’s actually much more wearable because it references what people were really wearing in urban settings around that time period,” she said. “It’s great news for us because it’s really much more wearable.”
Realising that impulse buying would be rare because of the jittery global economy, designers paid attention to detail.
“People are making wiser choices to build their wardrobe,” said designer Dennis Basso. “I think she is building a wardrobe today as opposed to just making a quick impulse purchase on something that is only worn once.”
Saks Fifth Avenue senior fashion director Colleen Sherin was ‘cautiously optimistic’ the upcoming season would entice shoppers to buy. “People are more thoughtful about the purchases these days, so for them to part with their money they are shopping for things ... that elicit some sort of emotional response because they are such beautiful special pieces,” she said.
Navy replaced black in some collections but the most common colours were jades, deep green, plum and burgundy in fabrics ranging from fur and leather to silk and satins.
Diane Von Furstenberg showed pink and berry sleeveless crepe dresses, a frosted lime jacquard coat and a cerulean blue, loose sleeveless top contrasting with a scarlet pencil skirt.
Ralph Lauren created fuchsia satin evening dresses with matching clutches, while Tommy Hilfiger featured plenty of burgundy and forest green.
“This is the season where we use a lot of colour,” said designer Narciso Rodriguez, adding he ‘worked with many shades of orange, red, rust, bordeaux, plum, everything, you know, in the red family’.
