Eating Out

Resurgence of a classic taste

January 15 - 21, 2014
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Gulf Weekly Resurgence of a classic taste

Gulf Weekly Mai Al Khatib-Camille
By Mai Al Khatib-Camille

Nothing beats a big hearty breakfast, especially when it tastes like mama used to make and at Naseef … it always feels like home.

Families and visitors from across the region are flocking to Bab Al Bahrain’s covered souq area to nibble on its scrumptious Arabic mezze-style breakfast, home-made ice cream and other dishes from around the world.

There is never a quiet moment at the cosy, charming café as it’s always bustling with hungry patrons. Not only is the food full of flavour but it is also rich with heritage.

The venture started from humble beginnings as a little bakery in Manama in 1920 opened by Amina Naseef’s grandfather who worked diligently at the tanoor.

Over time the family business grew in popularity, especially when her grandfather and father started serving ice cream. The shop was then located across from American Mission Hospital and cars would queue up just to sample their signature mango ice cream offering.

Mrs Naseef said: “Until today people tell me stories about my grandfather and how amazing his ice cream was. He and my father would make fresh ice cream every day and it would never last past 8pm. You were considered lucky if you ever got a scoop!

“My mother used to tell me that when the machine occasionally stopped working and they couldn’t serve ice cream, people would bang on their door demanding an explanation.

“Vans would drive up with people chanting ‘Naseef!’ It was always a beloved, locally-made ice cream.”

Mrs Naseef took over the business in the 1990s, opening up an ice cream parlour in Hoora on bustling Exhibition Road. She also launched a café on the American Navy base. However, due to a change in circumstances, she ventured into other fields and even had a successful stint in banking.

It wasn’t until two years ago when she was contacted by Shaikha Mai bint Mohammed Al Khalifa, Bahrain’s Minister of Culture, that she considered reopening.

Mrs Naseef said: “I was pleasantly surprised when she contacted me and asked whether I would open Naseef again. I thought perhaps it was time and to be honest I am glad I did.

“It was meant to be. I want to thank Shaikha Mai as she is a remarkable woman who cares about everyone and the kingdom.

“I started a small ice cream factory in Muharraq to introduce different flavours. I can make any flavour if requested for functions and such. Our Rose flavor, for example, is doing really well.”

Once the factory was up and running her next step was to find a venue. Mrs Naseef carried out extensive market research until she set her heart on Bab Al Bahrain and its indoor mall.

Soon, her world of swirl began to change as she started to dish out breakfasts, lunches and snacks too.

Word of her delicious delights began to spread like wildfire. Customers weren’t just coming in from Bahrain, tourists started travelling across the region and queuing up for tables.

She said: “I never imagined how busy we would get. I have customers coming from Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, and Qatar. We are packed on the weekends.

“I truly thank God for all this. I didn’t plan to restart this business but it was an opportunity that I couldn’t pass up. I am proud to be carrying on the family tradition.”

The GulfWeekly family heard so much about Naseef that they decided to put its famous set breakfast to the test.

Sitting on the Bahraini-style benches, friendly waiters brought over the breakfast-for-two, priced at BD6, which includes a spread of balaleet, tomato eggs, falafel, nikee, bajilla, mashed potatos, a basket of khamiri, mhayawa and Bahraini bread.

Since we are a large family we opted for two large breakfast trays instead along with a pot of chai karak, at BD1 and some coffee. The editor requested a side of liver Iskandarani plate at BD1.5 which both he and our photographer, devoured in no time.

I couldn’t get enough of the balaleet which is vermicelli noodles with fried egg, a Bahraini delicacy.
 
We were also treated to the Naseef special mango ice cream, priced at 800 fils a scoop, and Arabic coffee.

Naseef is open seven-days-a-week from 8am to 11pm. For details, contact 17208888, 17223333 or follow on Facebook and on Instagram @naseefcafe.







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