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Without question exquisite food dished up on a plate by a culinary genius can appear like a work of art.
But when it tastes as good at it looks, then it’s a masterpiece. And where better to make that discovery in Bahrain than in the recently-opened Mexican restaurant themed around one of its country’s most celebrated painters.
I went to the opening of Cantina Kahlo last October and really didn’t get a taste of what was in store for diners as the event was packed with dignitaries, hoteliers and media-types which turned into a grand get-together but way off a proper taste-testing session.
Word-of-mouth from friends who have sampled the fare over the festive break have been positive but it wasn’t until last weekend that I truly appreciated what a buzzing, bright and brilliant dining destination was in our midst.
Now, let’s start with the name. Cantina is a type of bar popular in Mexico and the word is similar in etymology to ‘canteen’. Now let’s get this straight, this is a ‘canteen’ Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain-style and not to be confused with a UK factory canteen.
And Kahlo celebrates the work of late Mexican self-portrait artist Frida, who is still admired as a feminist icon, and who would no doubt have been on that recent antiPresident Trump march, wall or no wall.
Stunning examples of her work are placed on display and add to the ambience, aided and abetted by the marvellous Mexican musicians playing around the tables. I fell in love with the glamorous atmosphere inside generated by the bold art and colours of Mexico, although many guests were also enjoying the alfresco terrace nestled in the garden.
The maestro in the kitchen is Mexican-born and South American bred (he grew up in Uruguay) Chef Cesar Daniel de Leon Torres, working with a dedicated team of chefs from the region. Chef Cesar has composed a menu of dishes and flavours magnificently Mexican.
Selections include artisanal tacos, ceviche, guacamole as well as favourites like sopes and mouth-watering flautas, besides other delicacies ranging from pulled chicken and roasted pineapple sour cream to field mushrooms and beef tongue.
In a nod to authenticity, Chef Cesar, joined the team in Bahrain after honing his skills in renowned restaurants in Miami, not, I might add, the Tex-Mex variety, and proudly works primarily with ingredients imported directly from Mexico.
He said it was all about the taste, and he was so right. I read something the other day that suggested that if you like spicy Mexican dishes, there’s even more reason to tuck in – it could help you live longer.
Researchers who studied the eating habits of volunteers over a two-decade period found that those who ate hot red chili peppers were 13 per cent less likely to die than those who did not.
Now, if that’s not a good reason to celebrate at Cantina Kahlo, I don’t know what is. After dipping Tortilla crisps into a magnificent bowl of Guacamole Kahlo (BD6++) between us, the good lady wife, Kathryn, and I, continued to share a selection of dishes, starting with Ceviche de Camaron, a seafood sensation popular in the coastal regions of Latin America featuring pink shrimp, habanero chili, lime tomato and mango (BD5++).
An Aruachile de Pulpo followed starring octopus and seasoned this time with chili, garlic oil, red onion and coriander (BD5++). Our healthy fishy trail continued with a Quinoa Y Atun salad with yellow fin tuna, black quinoa, red onion, corn Poblano peppers, avocado and lemon olive oil (BD4++) Then it was time to fiesta with those ‘hot little cravings’.
Antojitos Calientes is typical street food found in small, traditional markets Kathryn craved for during her sad, single back-packing days in Mehico before she settled down to a fulfilled and deliriously happy married life with yours truly.
Hotting up, we came across Sopes Con Carne (BD3.500++) which contains mighty Wagyu beef short ribs in corn dough with black beans, tomatillo and sour cream and Flautas de Pollo (BD4++), a neat version with braised chicken, sour cream and serrano chili sauce.
Superb! We were ready to rumble with a couple of Tortas, a neat bread-coated chicken breast with Chihuahua cheese and chipotle mayo called Milanesa De Pollo (BD6) wrapped in a ‘bolillo’ bun like the same-priced Baja Pescado, a neat package of sea bass, sliced avocado, pickled cabbage and coriander cream.
The latter was a taste of things to come … and the masterpiece mentioned earlier. Admire the main photograph left. What a stunner and what a taste. The Huachinango a la Veracruzana (BD12++) is a sea bass sensation which is presented like a coiled snake about to strike, or a sailing ship in a sea of Veracruzana sauce.
The flesh and the skin taste superb and I’m seriously considering getting the image framed and placed on my desk signed by the chef. Hail Cesar! If you’ve any room for dessert try the Pastel de tres Leches (BD3.500++) traditional milk cakes with meringue, mango and strawberry.
We took home some Churros (same price and served with dipping chocolate and caramel sauce) for our teenage son, Stan Jnr, as we felt guilty about him missing out on this exceptional dining experience, although his birthday is coming up, so he might get lucky. Don’t delay, book a table today.
For reservations and further information, call 17586499 or email rc.bahrz. restaurant.reservations@ ritzcarlton.com
See Stan’s interview with Chef Cesar by scanning the QR code or by visiting www.gulfweekly.com or our Facebook page.
