Designers feeling texture

Quilting, lace, fur ... leather. Designers are feeling texture for next autumn. "It's all about little thrills," said Ken Downing, fashion director at Neiman Marcus. "Designers are inventing all these ideas of interesting fabrics." GulfWeekly checks out what some of the top designers have it store for us in 2011 after a series of preview shows.

RODARTE: Sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy hit on more straightforward styles that can translate to the street.

Several gowns had a windblown wheat print at the hem, with the rest of the dresses catching different moments of the sunset.

Seems crazy, right? It'll all make sense when front-row guest Kirsten Dunst or one of the Mulleavys' other celebrity fans turns up wearing one at an event.

The opening outfit was a high-neck, cream-and-black dotted chiffon dress - with black horsehair trim - that was covered with a yellow boucle coat that had strategic cut-outs to show off the garment underneath.

MICHAEL KORS: The presentation of Kors' 30th anniversary collection was a hit parade, revisiting his favourite fun, glamorous themes with an audience eager to cheer him on.

There were references to disco and dancers, the boardroom, the beach and the ski slopes.

Kors filled the front row at New York Fashion Week with Catherine Zeta-Jones, Michael Douglas, Anjelica Huston, Debra Messing, Emma Roberts and Bette Midler.

His muse can pull off a wrap coat in soft gray cashgora with a silky white charmeuse shirt and man-tailored trousers one day, and a beaded black jumpsuit with a sheer caftan over it the next. For autumn, his customers are getting jersey dresses with halter tops, pyjama-style evening pants, a big black puffer coat, a tan-coloured, one-shouldered beaded gown, and fur - in smoke gray, rose pink or chocolate brown.

J. MENDEL: Oh those peep-toe boots. Gilles Mendel debuted his new shoe collection. All the boots teetered on thin, sexy heels. There were luxe looks, especially gowns, to go with them. Hollywood stylists in the front row were whispering throughout the show, 'And who's going to wear that one?'

The dresses aimed to be a little slouchy and very sensual, appearing as if they were just pinned here and there. Made mostly of tulle, silk or mousseline - a favourite of Mendel's - the designer said in his notes he was aiming for 'throw-on-and-go appeal'. Except that the looks were dripping in luxury with satin, beading and appliques.

Fur remains front and centre. The stylish and modern interpretations included a snow mink mounted jacket, a pink quilted broadtail -with fur epaulettes - and a mink-and-wool wrap coat.

NANETTE LEPORE: The Ohio native put out prints with names like astral, cloud and star in a collection inspired by the sky. She paired clothes with zebra-print bags and boots, and shearling coats. Lepore had had shimmery white fabrics in swaying dresses that were ruffled and embellished with rhinestones.

The astral print was a mix of large stars and flowers. Lace created sheer backs on jackets.

Lepore's finale was a long sheer dress in black with a deep V-neck and silver beading.

"I think it's what women really want to wear," actress Patricia Clarkson said. "Not some fantastical idea of what she wants to wear."

MARCHESA: The best revenge of a jilted lover is looking good, and the designers of Marchesa have given an exquisite makeover to Miss Havisham.

The inspiration for autumn was David Lean's 1946 version of the Charles Dickens' classic Great Expectations.

The results were ethereal, almost ghostly at times, especially one with exaggerated Victorian shapes, or the white-on-black beaded gown worn with a black lace jacket.

Most looks were rooted in light-as-a-feather tulle, but so much of it was used, it took on the personality of something very strong. Add heavy embellishment and long silhouettes, and you've got glamour.

Forget about waiting until the autumn, a strapless gown with a sweetheart neckline and chunky-beaded bodice seemed destined for the Oscar red carpet later this month.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA: These clothes are for women looking for the special investment pieces that can be worn for a lifetime. He's particularly known for embellishment, embroidery and show-stopping eveningwear. Come autumn, coats will surely be on that short list. Many were fur-cashgora combos and cashmere crocheted cardigans with fur hoods gave new life to a standby silhouette.

Daytime dresses were slim, some with a simple belt at the waist. He did not shy away from colour ... there were bright blues, greens and reds.

Options for black-tie include a sparkly midnight blue V-neck, long-sleeve gown with embroidered bursts that looked like night-time stars. The belle of the ball didn't get a full length gown. She wore a gold floral-thread-work-embroidered organza dress that hit below the knee

ELIE TAHARI: "It's about love," Tahari said backstage. "It's about luxe, luxurious, luscious."

He went on to add leather, lace and leopard to the list. Tahari's romantic line was grouped by colour, changing from black to white, then fading to beige and darker browns and ending with burgundy.

Chiffon flowed over lace or lace fell over chiffon to create beautiful sheer effects. Sleeves were wide and floating, which created a relaxed flowing look. Fox fur functioned as vestsand stoles. Animal prints appeared on skirts, jackets and pants.

The 'rich' look attracted television's Joan Rivers and her daughter Melissa to the front row. Tahari said he sees the woman he dresses as 'sexy and smart'.

"It's about dressing up," he said. "It's about looking beautiful while feeling good and being happy."

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ: Layering and luxury are a strong presence, but one look at the pieced-together coats and dresses with exposed seams and structured silhouettes, and it couldn't belong to anyone else. The other giveaway were Rodriguez's long-time friends and fans Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld in the front row. "Narciso kept to his chic minimal aesthetic," said Nicole Fritton, Harper's Bazaar market director. The outerwear was among the strongest looks, especially the reversible wool ones with long, lean lines. Fur was used sparingly, but more so than usual, ramping up the glamour.