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Kabul is the capital and largest city of Afghanistan and is the fifth fastest growing city in the world. It is also the capital of Kabul Province, located in the eastern section of Afghanistan. According to latest estimates, the population of the Kabul metropolitan area is over four million.
The city serves as the nation’s cultural and learning centre, situated 1,791 metres above sea level in a narrow valley, wedged between the Hindu Kush mountains along the Kabul River.
The Kabul International Airport is located about 16 kilometres from the centre of the city. Kabul’s main products include fresh and dried fruits, nuts, Afghan rugs, leather and sheep skin products, furniture, antique replicas and domestic clothes.
The wars since 1978 have limited the economic productivity but after the establishment of the Karzai administration in late 2001 some progress has been made. Kabul is over 3,500 years old; many empires have long fought over the valley for its strategic location along the trade routes of South and Central Asia.
And, in a country where music was silenced in the name of religion for five years, the beat is back and even rock shares the airwaves with the romantic strains of traditional Afghan songs.
The Taliban, who banned all music as sinful while they were in power between 1996 and 2001, are now waging an insurgency against the Western-backed government – but they can’t stop the music.
The Central Asian nation has an ancient tradition of songs built on its rich culture of poetry, ranging from war, heroism and epic tales of life in this harsh land, to delicate love stories. Even in the new forms of pop and rock, imported along with the Nato troops, the war is never far away. In a makeshift studio in their apartment in west Kabul, four young men have formed a band called Morcha (Ants), which they describe as Afghanistan’s first rock band.
Vocalist Shekib Musadeq, drummer Shafiq Najafi and two bass players Hassanzada and Behroz Shujahi gather daily for practice, rocking their building – and their neighbours – with Western beats.
“Music has been part of the people’s life ever since history remembers,” says Hassanzada.
He describes their lyrics as ‘neither about love, nor Taliban hatred’ but about current realities in their country: a deadly insurgency, corruption, the illicit drugs trade and natural disasters.
“Fifteen died in Helmand, the drought ended in Herat… Nato conducted a rapid air strike on a wedding party,” the band sings against the beat of drum and bass guitar while practising for a big concert in Kabul.
Whether the music plays or not, it will be some time before tourists ever make the trek. Only a few days ago an 11-hour gun battle took place to free hostages in a hotel and restaurant at Qargha Lake, north of Kabul, targetted for serving alcohol to foreigners.
Located about 30 minutes from Kabul city centre, Qargha Lake is a popular weekend retreat for Afghans. There are a number of hotels and a golf course. Though foreigners often visit Qargha, it is predominantly an Afghan attraction.
The number of attacks by insurgents in Afghanistan in the first quarter of 2012 was lower than in the same period last year, but such incidents continue to shake Afghans’ confidence about the stability of their country. Anwar Khan Oryakhail, a Kabul MP, said: “This was an attack on a place where people just go for picnics to spend a few happy moments.”
Qargha Lake probably seemed an easier target to the Taliban than others inside the city. Insurgents reportedly entered from the west, bypassing Kabul’s police checkpoints.
The Taliban last conducted a big attack in Kabul on April 15, when insurgents took over buildings in several locations in the capital and in three provinces to the east. The 18-hour siege left 11 Afghan security forces and four civilians dead. Security forces killed 36 insurgents and arrested one.
