Eating Out

Going Gallic!

October 17 - 23, 2012
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Gulf Weekly Going Gallic!

Gulf Weekly Mai Al Khatib-Camille
By Mai Al Khatib-Camille

Michelin star Master Chef Philippe Bardau has been serving up a fabulous five-course gourmet dinner that in recent days has had French cuisine aficionados proclaiming ‘Oh la la, c’est magnifique’.

Today is the Parisian culinary wizard’s last day on the island personally serving his signature dishes to diners at Silk’s Restaurant in the Mövenpick Hotel Bahrain.

Over the past 34 years Chef Philippe has made a mark on the gastronomic scene with his award-winning restaurants Le Lift and La Terasse du Parc in Orleans, France.

His love affair with French cuisine began as a child when his parents took him to a variety of Michelin-rated restaurants, the international hallmark of fine dining quality.

He said: "I find that my cooking is influenced very much by the season. For example, now is the time for game, different mushrooms and scallops, not strawberries.î

Although he is renowned for combining Japanese influences and other styles into his French cuisine, the experience he offered guests in Bahrain was totally Gallic in flavour.

"I am going back to my roots with this menu,î he exclaimed before dishing up the delights to tease my tastebuds. The food was so beautifully presented that I felt underdressed. I was also tempted to lick my plate clean but my editor had warned me beforehand not to show up GulfWeekly in such refined company.

"The hotel and Mˆvenpick’s executive chef, Alfred Zuberbuehler, made me feel right at home in their kitchen and had also imported specially requested ingredients for me from France,î Chef Philippe explained.

"I have wanted people to leave the restaurant feeling as though they had experienced something out-of-this-world. I am here to serve pleasure.î 

Although Chef Philippe spoke little English, and this interview was conducted mainly through an interpreter, his delicious French fare spoke volumes.

Silk’s food and beverage manager Nizar El Lakkis kindly went through the menu with me, which included a choice of three dishes for each course. His advice was much appreciated.

My evening began with a salmon roll stuffed with cream-cheese seasoned with herbs. It was so refreshing that I sheepishly asked for another which, forgetting my manners, an attentive waiter gladly complied.

According to Mr Nizar, that first little titbit was meant to clear my palate for what was to come. But nothing could have prepared me for the richness and creaminess of the foie gras de canard en fine croûte de pain brûlé, gelée à la figue.

My translation is two little drops of duck foie gras accompanied by a thin crust of pain brûlé and topped with fig jelly.

I then had Tarte fine sans p‚te de noix de Saint-Jacques autour du du céleri rave et de l’huile de noix, which is dough-less tart of fresh scallops with finely sliced celeriac and walnut oil.

Perfectly cooked, it was like taking a bite out of a heavenly cloud. The contrast between the texture of the scallops and celeriac, not to mention the simple seasoning left me craving for more. In fact I was tempted to ask for another dish, but then I remembered the editor’s words.

Next up was the aiguillette de de Saint-Pierre pochée au basilic risotto de petit épeautre de Sault au parmesan – a basil-poached filet of John Dory accompanied by risotto with parmesan, the latter resembling an Arabic dish, saucy and creamy.
 
The veal cutlet which followed, known as the côte de veau, morille à peine crémée, cromesquis d’une blanquette,, was extremely juicy and tender.

Amazing. There was no way I could ever replicate a dish like it at home.

The ‘pièce de résistance’ was the palet fondant au chocolat Jivara, confit de banane, glace à la vanille Mövenpick. Vanilla Ice cream, which I’d like to call death by chocolate.

At that point I was glad to be dining on my own because I’m sure the stupid grin that was plastered on my face would have scared off my fiancé and made him think twice about tying the knot.

The five-course dinner priced at BD35++ per person is only available tonight. Vive la France and Bon Appétit!







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