Flip through the latest issue of Gulf Weekly.
Asian food remains close to my heart. I took the good lady wife, Kathryn, on our first date to Mr Chu’s Chinese Restaurant in the UK’s northern outpost of Hull and we returned with our two children only a few weeks back for the venue’s New Year’s Eve celebrations with fine fare and fireworks on the menu.
The place found fame when former local MP John Prescott, then Deputy Prime Minister, went on a trade mission to China and was asked his thoughts about the country.
He told the media that the Chinese were fine but the food wasn’t as good as Mr Chu’s.
Mr Chu has now opened a second restaurant in the city and the original set alongside the murky waters of the Humber estuary is now run by his son, lovingly called Jimmy by the locals, get it?
They’re a funny lot in Hull and they have something more to smile about as they prepare to celebrate being named City of Culture.
Similarly, Bahrain is celebrating Manama being the new Capital of Gulf Tourism and it also boasts an award-winning restaurant of its own sitting alongside the waterside.
Re/Asian Cuisine by Wolfgang Puck is located on the 50th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay.
Featuring celebrated restaurateur Wolfgang’s signature, modern approach to traditional Chinese cuisine, the restaurant provides a ‘re’-evolution (get it, again?) of what the master chef has been passionate about for the majority of his career.
Re, he says, reveals this culinary progression and demand by diners for more refined Asian cooking, including Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese influences.
And his venture in the kingdom has been placed in the able hands of Executive Chef Brian Becher … a real, case of Becher By Golly Wow! (With apologies to all fans of 1970s soul stars The Stylistics).
Just nine months after its opening he steered it to the coveted Restaurant of the Year Award at the inaugural Food and Travel Bahrain Awards, Best Chinese Fusion Restaurant and also picked up the prize as Chef of the Year.
He said: “I believe that the key to our success is to make an outstanding first impression. When we open our doors to our guests every evening, we have one shot to meet and exceed their high expectations. To me, anything less than excellent is a failure so I am very proud of my team for winning these prestigious accolades.”
It works. There was a buzzing atmosphere on Friday evening but the venue allows for an intimate dining experience too as we were placed on a table-for-two by jolly James Moon, assistant restaurant director, close to a window offering stunning views over nighttime Manama.
The first flavours to pass our lips were the spicy Tuna Tartare in Sesame Miso (ice-cream-shaped) Cones, Chili Aioli and Shaved Bonito, a crunchy, saucy little fish number that is regarded as one of the restaurant’s signature starters, priced BD7++.
Philadelphia-born Chef Brian was determined to dazzle us and delivered a selection of dumplings and dim sum classics. The normal Chinese meat staple is off the menu for local cultural considerations but I’m not going to complain about the Wagyu Beef alternative, it really is superb, especially in the pan-seared Pot Stickers mixed with scallion, chili oil, cilantro and black vinegar (BD8++).
The Chili Dan Dan Chicken Dumplings were delightful too with vegetables, Sichuan pepper and roasted peanuts (BD8++).
We dipped into the mid-week early bird set menu (a steal at BD23++) for one of the dishes and this provided the ‘wow’ moment of my culinary reviewing career.
If you’re also an expat living on the island, make a note: order the Pan Seared Sea Bass before you move on to pastures new. It’s simply stunning. Crispy on the outside and oozing with flavour to savour inside with melt-in-the-mouth flesh, prawn Malay Laksa, coconut chili and rice noodles.
Now I know why he and the venue have won all those accolades.
Our main course followed, an exquisite Filet of Beef Sichuan Au Poivre (BD27++) with smoked chili-shallot reduction with some house-made Shanghai-style noodles, replacing the normally served Mala potatoes.
Satisfyingly full, we also enjoyed a selection of desserts including a Halo Halo, a Filipino-inspired sweet finale suggested by our fabulous waitress Kharla Flores, with pineapple shaved ice, fresh mango and coconut tapioca pearl, a clever combination of cold, cool and crunchy.
Next time I’m in Hull I’ll mention it all to Mr Chu and Jimmy … I think they could learn a few things from Puck’s protégé. REspect!
To experience the award-winning service at Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, or to make reservations, visit the property online or follow @FSBahrain on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
