Eating Out

True classic experience

June 5 -11, 2019
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Gulf Weekly True classic experience

Gulf Weekly Stan Szecowka
By Stan Szecowka

TASTEBUDS will be tingling at one of the kingdom’s most coveted Italian restaurants with a special presentation of dishes that have helped capture the hearts of diners for generations.

At the weekend, GulfWeekly was invited to preview the new La Pergola ‘Classics by Perbellini’ menu developed by culinary maestro Giancarlo Perbellini with Chef Nicolò Agostini, who has been entrusted with the task of heading La Pergola by Perbellini at the Gulf Hotel Convention & Spa.

There is a combination of signature dishes from Italy’s cities and countryside alongside the La Pergola classics, with an added Perbellini touch, focused on pleasing both the authentic cuisine connoisseurs and the local tastes of Bahrain.

As a regular diner before and after its reincarnation under the star’s wing (in fact, I celebrated my birthday at the restaurant back in April) I’ve always enjoyed the fare and it’s warming to the heart to find some familiar favourites back where they belong … with warm being the theme.

The ‘classics’ include Cappon Magro – a warm seafood salad from the port city of Genoa comprising of mussels, clams, calamari, sea bass, prawns and scallops tossed with some homemade pesto, broccoli, carrots, white cauliflower and Tuscan bread in white vinegar.

We also shared a light roasted veal dish with foamed eggs and a terrific tuna cream sauce too called Vitello Tonnato.

Equally tasty, with an added delicate chili sensational kick, came the Zuppa di Pesce – a tomato-based seafood soup with prawns, calamari, clams, scallops, mussels and sea bass with cherry tomatoes, a traditional serving from the south of Italy .

This restaurant has a glowing reputation for its soups and this was as good as any I have tasted. Unbeatable.

Someone asked me the other day if I liked seafood. I replied, when I see food, I eat it! Joking aside, I truly love seafood and I’m not adverse to a plate of pasta when it comes to dining Italiano.

Next up was the good lady wife Kathryn’s favourite choice, the Penne con crema di fagioli e ragu di calamari – the extruded type of pasta with cylinder-shaped pieces covered with superb white bean cream and calamari ragout with fried calamari heads.

I’m a Ravioli man myself, little packages of perfection, soft and squidgy and full of goodness. The Ravioli di ricotta e spinaci did not disappoint and it’s a must for all fans of Popeye the sailor man (grandparents, please explain that one to the kids).

Restaurant manager Simone Cassago cannot go unmentioned either, and he’s one of the reasons we really enjoy returning to this restaurant. He and his efficient and friendly team keep the atmosphere bubbling along in what are bright, homely and comfortable surroundings. I’m still impressed by the recent refurbishment.

He has experienced everything from steak houses to three Michelin star venues and it’s his intention to deliver a warm and genuine Italian experience to diners and one he achieves with aplomb.

The mighty main courses include the Filleto di Manzo con verdure saltate, a certified Angus beef fillet with sautéed vegetables and diavola sauce, but I plumped for a fabulous slowly-cooked and tender Veal Cheek on mashed potato, with a little red cabbage working as a perfect combination on the taste-buds. It’s called Guancia di Vitello Brasato, Purè di Lievito Madre e Cappuccio.

Head Chef Nicolò is relishing the opportunity to impress and I sneaked into the kitchen to watch this amazing talent at work. The former chef de partie for appetisers and desserts at the Locana Perbellini Bistrot, he has gained experience at some of Italy’s top hotel restaurants too, picking up tips from celebrated chefs Marco Valletta and Pino Cuttaia along the way.

It was a case of sharing and caring, so we split the meat dish in half and went for a bit of surf and turf by doing the same to the main fish dish too. Well, I did tell you I loved seafood and it helped avoid any arguments over who made the best choice!

The Cernia La Pergola – grilled fillet of hammour with shrimps, steamed vegetables and potato puree was pure perfection.

We made time for sharing desserts too, my personal favourite Tiramisù and the Meringata allo Yoghurt, Frutti Rossi e Salsa al Lampone – a mighty yoghurt meringue with mixed berries and raspberry sauce.

Don’t miss a classic encounter!

For more details and to book a table call 17713000 or visit www.gulfhotelbahrain.com







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